Je suis tombé sur un texte (en anglais) fort intéressant (malheureusement sur FaceBook seulement :banghead::banhappy:)
Je le partage ici en y ajoutant le lien source : https://www.facebook.com/notes/mitsubishi-outlander-phev-uk/faq-and-jargon/800900190102015
divisé en 3 partie car trop long pour être dans un seul message.
<<<
FAQ and Jargon
Richi Jennings·Monday, 28 May 2018
I’ve been curating a few FAQs from here and elsewhere.
A. Fix bad battery health data (without dealer)?
B. What’s my battery health? (without ODB2)
C. How do I disable LDW on startup?
D. How do I disable aircon on startup?
E. Wi-fi and the app
F. How to default to split-screen P-side-P display?
G. What happens when battery range goes to zero?
H. If the car has a 12 kWh battery, why does a full charge use much less?
J. What does the Eco button actually do?
K. How do the ICE and the motor-generators work together?
L. Random thoughts on tyres
M. A mantra on battery health
N. What’s that little light for?
O. Known recalls
P. Where’s the (other) fuse box?
Q. Air conditioning and heater
R. My beeping PHEV won’t beeping lock!
S. Regen and braking (aka: “B0 or B5, which is best?”)
T. Charging
U. Units: Arrgh!
V. Headlights
ZZ. Notable threads, jargon, abbreviations, TLAs, etc.
Suggestions welcome! Mention or PM Richi Jennings.
A. FIX BAD BATTERY HEALTH DATA WITHOUT GOING TO THE DEALER?
The idea here is to use up the traction-battery’s reserve before a slow charge, then give the cells time for their electrolytes to stabilise. This is similar to the “BMS recalibration” process that dealers perform (see section A.2 for more info).
[Note that this process as written won’t work on a 3h, but you should be able to sit in it and run the heater on high. Run it until the ICE kicks in, then switch off.]
A.2. What the dealership does
The Workshop manual calls it “DRIVE BATTERY CAPACITY AUTOMATIC MEASUREMENT (M549-45-557-14600-01)”—the tech should follow the revised instructions from the latest Service Bulletin, which I think is MSB-17EXL54-501, dated May 16, 2017. We often abbreviate this to DBCAM. The dealer tech may also refer to it as “Battery auto capacity measured.”
This procedure forces the BMS to re-learn the battery SoH, which can be useful if it’s got confused. It can take three days to do it properly, so be prepared for the dealership to hang on to the car.
The dealer may want to just “reset” or “initialise” the estimated capacity, without going through all this process. The Workshop Manual says not to do that, unless you’re replacing the battery, but that if you do it by mistake, then you must next go through the up-to-3-day measurement process.
I suspect this is why some customers have seen weird results—i.e., the dealer selected the wrong option in the MUT3 diagnostic unit and gave it back to the customer with an impossible “100% SoH.”
There is another, shorter procedure, known as “Cell Smoothing,” which the dealer may want to try first. Many dealer techs believe this procedure to be the same as DBCAM, but it’s clearly different. We believe this procedure does an in-depth cell balancing (a bottom balance in the jargon). This is a useful first step in diagnosing a possible damaged battery, but it is not a substitute for DBCAM, if you suspect the BMS is confused. Don’t be fobbed off by a “successful” smoothing.
Some dealers are more clueful than others. Hilariously, one tech actually tested the 12V battery and told the owner everything was fine.
A.3. “The BMS is buggy as heck”
The BMS is always trying to adjust its SoH estimate, but often doesn't do a great job. Giving it a variety of conditions is the best way to help it be accurate.
For example:
Use the Charge Cost feature in the MMCS to work out how many kWh were used for a full charge. It’s not super-accurate, but gives a useful indication.
I set the price per kWh to £0.10 to easily work it out. On my MY14 with 85,000 miles, I see £0.88 to £0.98 (i.e., 8.8 to 9.8 kWh) from an “empty” battery, depending on how much reserve charge was left in the battery when I got home and on whether the BMU decides to slightly overcharge on this occasion. Averaging several charge cycles, let’s call it £0.93 (i.e., 9.3 kWh).
Remember to read the graph in READY mode (it can silently fail if you’re in ACC or ACC2).
So if you average a few full charges and divide by 9.55, you should get an indication of your SoH (as a percentage of 38 Ah, which is how the PHEVwatchdog app calculates it).
Here’s the nerdy working: A 40 Ah battery is specced at 12 kWh (nominal 300 Volts), but you can only put in 8.4 kWh from 25% SoC (see part H). You also need to allow for roughly 12% wasted energy that turns to heat, so a battery with factory-spec capacity would average about £0.96 charge cost (9.55 kWh energy in equals 8.4 kWh stored).
D. HOW DO I DISABLE AIR CONDITIONING ON STARTUP?
To stop the air-conditioning compressor coming on in climate-control Auto mode, press and hold the aircon button (snowflake) for 10 seconds.
When you hear three rapid beeps, then the auto button is disconnected from the aircon button. So when you switch aircon off, it’ll be off the next time you drive.
But beware of not running the aircon for a few weeks: The lack of lubrication from circulating the gas/oil mix can lead to premature failure down the line.
Alternatively, if you just want to stop it this one time, start up in FakeReady mode, where you can adjust the climate control settings (see section ZZ: Jargon).
E. WI-FI AND THE APP
E.1. App won’t connect
If you have a 10-digit wi-fi passcode, you need to use the original app (not "I' and not "II"). However, this app has a bug that stops it working on Android 8.
There was a recall to upgrade the wi-fi module firmware to give it a longer, 14-character passcode (that's why MMC didn't bother fixing the app). However, the recall campaign was withdrawn, because it was bricking the wi-fi module. Hence people resorting to old phones and tablets to remote-control their PHEVs.
Some owners have had success persuading their dealer to do the wi-fi firmware upgrade, which gives you a 14-character passcode and lets you use the "I" version of the app (which does work with Android 8). Although it was withdrawn, my spies tell me it's available again. I think the dealer needs to get some sort of magic permission from Mitsubishi UK.
E.2. Where’s my wi-fi password?
You can get the code for free by writing to MMC via this form: mitsubishi-cars.co.uk/enquiries/customer-service
E.3. How do I reset the wi-fi? (when you have two phones registered already)
You can only register two phones. So you might need to deregister everything and start again: Reset it by carefully following these steps (1–5 must be performed within 30 seconds):
E.4. I still can’t connect my Android phone
Beware of over-thinking things. Yes, the car has a wi-fi access point, but you shouldn’t try to manually connect to it (unless you have an iPhone/iPad). Let the app manage things and it should work just fine.
Delete the car’s entry from the list of saved wi-fi names and just let the app manage the connection: Long-press on the saved entry and select Forget.
However, some Android phones may include extra apps or customised UI that try to “help” you connect to wi-fi and get in the way. That’s unfortunate, but hopefully those phones have a way to disable that behaviour—it can mess up the PHEV app's logic for putting you back on a good network when you exit the app.
E.5. I still can’t connect my iPhone / iPad
Go to the Settings app and disable Wi-Fi Assist: “Go to Settings > Cellular or Settings > Mobile Data. Then scroll down and tap the slider for Wi-Fi Assist.” [support.apple.com/en-us/HT205296]
Once you’ve successfully set it up, in the Settings app, go to Wi-Fi, select the PHEV’s network, and turn off Auto-Join (thanks to Charlie Heard for the tip).
F. HOW TO DEFAULT TO SPLIT-SCREEN P-SIDE-P DISPLAY?
In the map display, hold the North/Compass button which then splits the display in two. Half nearest driver displays the map, half furthest away gives options to choose one of a range of other displays—audio, EV, etc.
It stays on even after restarting. To return to this display, press MAP.
G. WHAT HAPPENS WHEN BATTERY RANGE GOES TO ZERO?
When you reach zero miles (“----”) on the guess-o-meter, you’re at 30% state-of-charge. The computer aims to keep the battery SoC roughly in the 25% to 30% range (which is why you rarely see the final bar go away on the in-dash display). That’s a swing of around 2 Ah—roughly half the SoC-swing from “full” to “empty” in a non-plugin gen2 Prius, for example.
It uses that charge for things like:
At low loads, it also generates electricity by running the engine closer to the thermal-efficiency sweet spot on the speed/load curve, which produces excess power, so it charges the battery from that excess. This is completely alien to ICE.
At higher road speeds, it’ll switch to parallel-hybrid mode, where the ICE directly drives the front wheels and mops up any spare power to charge the battery.
See also Part K for info on the clever GKN transaxle that allows all this to happen.
H. IF THE CAR HAS A 12 kWh BATTERY, WHY DOES A FULL CHARGE USE MUCH LESS?
EVs and hybrids never “fully” charge nor discharge their batteries.
Back in the 1990s, Toyota and Honda discovered that if you restrict the SoC to a swing of about 40% to 60%, the battery essentially lasts for ever (for the life of the car, anyway). This is why you see MY2005 Prius taxis at 300,000+ miles.
But that was NiMH chemistries. Lithium chemistries can stretch the point. For example, the Outlander PHEV uses around 25-95% of the rated cell capacity (confusingly, the BMS calls that 95% high-water mark “100%” SoC, relating to an open-circuit Voltage of 4.1V). Newer cell designs can safely stretch the low-water mark even lower.
This also means the effective battery capacity will be significantly less than the rated capacity (depending on how the specs are written). Internet fluff implies the PHEV has a 12kWh/40Ah battery, which is essentially true, but it only uses about 70% of that (roughly 28 Ah, equating to about 8.4 kWh charging energy in).
The other thing to understand about battery chemistry is that there are no absolutes. Zero and 100% are kinda fuzzy and open to interpretation—a bit like defining the height where space starts, and what we mean by zero height, or sea level (which differs by season, moon phase, latitude, climate change, etc.) It’s even possible to charge a cell below what the manufacturer defines as zero, but that damages it faster than the manufacturer’s specs. Similarly, you can continue to charge a cell past “100%” but you shouldn’t, for the same reason.
Confusingly, the PHEV’s BMS does go slightly above what it calls 100% every few charges, but “100%” is more like 95% of the cell spec, as discussed above. It presumably does this when the cell temperatures are low and the open-circuit Voltage hasn’t yet reached 4.1V—it keeps track of the Ah going into the cells (so-called “Coulomb counting”), so this could be an indication that the BMS’s SoH estimate is pessimistic.
And finally, don't forget that the BMS’s SoC number is always an estimate. It's based on combining several measurements, integrating them, adjusting for previous experience, adding a fiddle-factor for expected change over time, and disembowelling chickens in Minato-ku. So if you see the SoC drop after the car’s been sitting for a couple of hours, you’ve not “lost” charge, it’s just the BMS changing its mind.
H.2. The “kWh” stored is kinda meaningless
The cells in the battery don't actually store electrical energy. No really: they store charge:
So the most efficient way to turn charge into energy is to be gentle on the throttle. You’ll get more power out of the same charge over the period of time you’re extracting it from the cells (i.e., converting charge back to electrical energy is more efficient).
>>>
Je le partage ici en y ajoutant le lien source : https://www.facebook.com/notes/mitsubishi-outlander-phev-uk/faq-and-jargon/800900190102015
divisé en 3 partie car trop long pour être dans un seul message.
<<<
FAQ and Jargon
Richi Jennings·Monday, 28 May 2018
I’ve been curating a few FAQs from here and elsewhere.
A. Fix bad battery health data (without dealer)?
B. What’s my battery health? (without ODB2)
C. How do I disable LDW on startup?
D. How do I disable aircon on startup?
E. Wi-fi and the app
F. How to default to split-screen P-side-P display?
G. What happens when battery range goes to zero?
H. If the car has a 12 kWh battery, why does a full charge use much less?
J. What does the Eco button actually do?
K. How do the ICE and the motor-generators work together?
L. Random thoughts on tyres
M. A mantra on battery health
N. What’s that little light for?
O. Known recalls
P. Where’s the (other) fuse box?
Q. Air conditioning and heater
R. My beeping PHEV won’t beeping lock!
S. Regen and braking (aka: “B0 or B5, which is best?”)
T. Charging
U. Units: Arrgh!
V. Headlights
ZZ. Notable threads, jargon, abbreviations, TLAs, etc.
Suggestions welcome! Mention or PM Richi Jennings.
A. FIX BAD BATTERY HEALTH DATA WITHOUT GOING TO THE DEALER?
The idea here is to use up the traction-battery’s reserve before a slow charge, then give the cells time for their electrolytes to stabilise. This is similar to the “BMS recalibration” process that dealers perform (see section A.2 for more info).
- Arrive home in evening
- Park up, but do not plug in. Allow battery to “rest”—to cool cells and stabilise electrolytes (say 60–120 mins)
- Using the remote app, go to Timer|Climate
- Spin the Mode to HEAT
- Select 30min in Operation Time
- Touch Home
- Touch Climate ON/OFF to manually switch on the heater
- Wait for battery reserve to be depleted (heater will automatically turn off). Battery should now be at around 25% SoC (no bars on the display).
- Allow battery to “rest” again (as step 2)
- Charge overnight
- If possible, do not drive the car next day: Leave the car on the charger all day, which should allow the cells’ electrolyte to fully disperse and demonstrate to the BMS that the battery has more headroom than it thought (assuming of course that it does)
[Note that this process as written won’t work on a 3h, but you should be able to sit in it and run the heater on high. Run it until the ICE kicks in, then switch off.]
A.2. What the dealership does
The Workshop manual calls it “DRIVE BATTERY CAPACITY AUTOMATIC MEASUREMENT (M549-45-557-14600-01)”—the tech should follow the revised instructions from the latest Service Bulletin, which I think is MSB-17EXL54-501, dated May 16, 2017. We often abbreviate this to DBCAM. The dealer tech may also refer to it as “Battery auto capacity measured.”
This procedure forces the BMS to re-learn the battery SoH, which can be useful if it’s got confused. It can take three days to do it properly, so be prepared for the dealership to hang on to the car.
The dealer may want to just “reset” or “initialise” the estimated capacity, without going through all this process. The Workshop Manual says not to do that, unless you’re replacing the battery, but that if you do it by mistake, then you must next go through the up-to-3-day measurement process.
I suspect this is why some customers have seen weird results—i.e., the dealer selected the wrong option in the MUT3 diagnostic unit and gave it back to the customer with an impossible “100% SoH.”
There is another, shorter procedure, known as “Cell Smoothing,” which the dealer may want to try first. Many dealer techs believe this procedure to be the same as DBCAM, but it’s clearly different. We believe this procedure does an in-depth cell balancing (a bottom balance in the jargon). This is a useful first step in diagnosing a possible damaged battery, but it is not a substitute for DBCAM, if you suspect the BMS is confused. Don’t be fobbed off by a “successful” smoothing.
Some dealers are more clueful than others. Hilariously, one tech actually tested the 12V battery and told the owner everything was fine.
A.3. “The BMS is buggy as heck”
The BMS is always trying to adjust its SoH estimate, but often doesn't do a great job. Giving it a variety of conditions is the best way to help it be accurate.
For example:
- full charge from 25%
- partial charge from 75%
- interrupted charge
- 2-hour pause before and after a charge
- toggle heater on/off to prompt a "top-up" charge several hours after a full charge
- 80% DC/CHAdeMO charge
- and possibly even charging on a slope (a bit random this idea, but it might cause electrolytes to diffuse differently)
Use the Charge Cost feature in the MMCS to work out how many kWh were used for a full charge. It’s not super-accurate, but gives a useful indication.
I set the price per kWh to £0.10 to easily work it out. On my MY14 with 85,000 miles, I see £0.88 to £0.98 (i.e., 8.8 to 9.8 kWh) from an “empty” battery, depending on how much reserve charge was left in the battery when I got home and on whether the BMU decides to slightly overcharge on this occasion. Averaging several charge cycles, let’s call it £0.93 (i.e., 9.3 kWh).
Remember to read the graph in READY mode (it can silently fail if you’re in ACC or ACC2).
So if you average a few full charges and divide by 9.55, you should get an indication of your SoH (as a percentage of 38 Ah, which is how the PHEVwatchdog app calculates it).
Here’s the nerdy working: A 40 Ah battery is specced at 12 kWh (nominal 300 Volts), but you can only put in 8.4 kWh from 25% SoC (see part H). You also need to allow for roughly 12% wasted energy that turns to heat, so a battery with factory-spec capacity would average about £0.96 charge cost (9.55 kWh energy in equals 8.4 kWh stored).
- So for my battery when the BMS was estimating 97.4%: 9.3 ÷ 9.55 ≃ 97.4% SoH
- ...and when it was estimating 99.5% and drawing ~9.5 kWh: 9.5 ÷ 9.55 ≃ 99.5%
- ...and now that it’s estimating 100.3% and drawing ~9.8 kWh: 9.8 ÷ 9.55 = 100.3%
- Start the car (LDW auto-enabled as usual).
- Turn LDW off
- Press and hold LDW for about 15 sec (when you release it, LDW2 is displayed)
D. HOW DO I DISABLE AIR CONDITIONING ON STARTUP?
To stop the air-conditioning compressor coming on in climate-control Auto mode, press and hold the aircon button (snowflake) for 10 seconds.
When you hear three rapid beeps, then the auto button is disconnected from the aircon button. So when you switch aircon off, it’ll be off the next time you drive.
But beware of not running the aircon for a few weeks: The lack of lubrication from circulating the gas/oil mix can lead to premature failure down the line.
Alternatively, if you just want to stop it this one time, start up in FakeReady mode, where you can adjust the climate control settings (see section ZZ: Jargon).
E. WI-FI AND THE APP
E.1. App won’t connect
If you have a 10-digit wi-fi passcode, you need to use the original app (not "I' and not "II"). However, this app has a bug that stops it working on Android 8.
There was a recall to upgrade the wi-fi module firmware to give it a longer, 14-character passcode (that's why MMC didn't bother fixing the app). However, the recall campaign was withdrawn, because it was bricking the wi-fi module. Hence people resorting to old phones and tablets to remote-control their PHEVs.
Some owners have had success persuading their dealer to do the wi-fi firmware upgrade, which gives you a 14-character passcode and lets you use the "I" version of the app (which does work with Android 8). Although it was withdrawn, my spies tell me it's available again. I think the dealer needs to get some sort of magic permission from Mitsubishi UK.
E.2. Where’s my wi-fi password?
You can get the code for free by writing to MMC via this form: mitsubishi-cars.co.uk/enquiries/customer-service
E.3. How do I reset the wi-fi? (when you have two phones registered already)
You can only register two phones. So you might need to deregister everything and start again: Reset it by carefully following these steps (1–5 must be performed within 30 seconds):
- Get in the car and fully close the drivers door
- Turn on the hazard lights (triangle button)
- Enter ACC mode (without pressing the brake pedal, press the power button once so that it glows orange)
- Alternately press and release the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the key fob 5 times (i.e., 10 presses in total). This must be done within 10 seconds of entering ACC mode in step (2)
- Listen for one beep, followed by 1 or 2 more beeps
- Repeat step 4, except do 10 pairs of presses (i.e., 20 presses in total)
- Listen for one beep, followed by NO more beeps
- Switch off car (press Power button twice) and hazard lights
E.4. I still can’t connect my Android phone
Beware of over-thinking things. Yes, the car has a wi-fi access point, but you shouldn’t try to manually connect to it (unless you have an iPhone/iPad). Let the app manage things and it should work just fine.
Delete the car’s entry from the list of saved wi-fi names and just let the app manage the connection: Long-press on the saved entry and select Forget.
However, some Android phones may include extra apps or customised UI that try to “help” you connect to wi-fi and get in the way. That’s unfortunate, but hopefully those phones have a way to disable that behaviour—it can mess up the PHEV app's logic for putting you back on a good network when you exit the app.
E.5. I still can’t connect my iPhone / iPad
Go to the Settings app and disable Wi-Fi Assist: “Go to Settings > Cellular or Settings > Mobile Data. Then scroll down and tap the slider for Wi-Fi Assist.” [support.apple.com/en-us/HT205296]
Once you’ve successfully set it up, in the Settings app, go to Wi-Fi, select the PHEV’s network, and turn off Auto-Join (thanks to Charlie Heard for the tip).
F. HOW TO DEFAULT TO SPLIT-SCREEN P-SIDE-P DISPLAY?
In the map display, hold the North/Compass button which then splits the display in two. Half nearest driver displays the map, half furthest away gives options to choose one of a range of other displays—audio, EV, etc.
It stays on even after restarting. To return to this display, press MAP.
G. WHAT HAPPENS WHEN BATTERY RANGE GOES TO ZERO?
When you reach zero miles (“----”) on the guess-o-meter, you’re at 30% state-of-charge. The computer aims to keep the battery SoC roughly in the 25% to 30% range (which is why you rarely see the final bar go away on the in-dash display). That’s a swing of around 2 Ah—roughly half the SoC-swing from “full” to “empty” in a non-plugin gen2 Prius, for example.
It uses that charge for things like:
- tootling around at low speed
- running the AC, pumps, hydraulic brake boost, power steering (all electric)
- motor assist if you press on
- synchronising the speeds of the ICE and both ends of the transmission when entering parallel mode (avoids slipping the small wet clutch)
- powering the 12V system, including the accessory battery
- regenerative braking
- synchronising ICE/transmission speeds (when it needs to reduce one of those speeds)
At low loads, it also generates electricity by running the engine closer to the thermal-efficiency sweet spot on the speed/load curve, which produces excess power, so it charges the battery from that excess. This is completely alien to ICE.
At higher road speeds, it’ll switch to parallel-hybrid mode, where the ICE directly drives the front wheels and mops up any spare power to charge the battery.
See also Part K for info on the clever GKN transaxle that allows all this to happen.
H. IF THE CAR HAS A 12 kWh BATTERY, WHY DOES A FULL CHARGE USE MUCH LESS?
EVs and hybrids never “fully” charge nor discharge their batteries.
Back in the 1990s, Toyota and Honda discovered that if you restrict the SoC to a swing of about 40% to 60%, the battery essentially lasts for ever (for the life of the car, anyway). This is why you see MY2005 Prius taxis at 300,000+ miles.
But that was NiMH chemistries. Lithium chemistries can stretch the point. For example, the Outlander PHEV uses around 25-95% of the rated cell capacity (confusingly, the BMS calls that 95% high-water mark “100%” SoC, relating to an open-circuit Voltage of 4.1V). Newer cell designs can safely stretch the low-water mark even lower.
This also means the effective battery capacity will be significantly less than the rated capacity (depending on how the specs are written). Internet fluff implies the PHEV has a 12kWh/40Ah battery, which is essentially true, but it only uses about 70% of that (roughly 28 Ah, equating to about 8.4 kWh charging energy in).
The other thing to understand about battery chemistry is that there are no absolutes. Zero and 100% are kinda fuzzy and open to interpretation—a bit like defining the height where space starts, and what we mean by zero height, or sea level (which differs by season, moon phase, latitude, climate change, etc.) It’s even possible to charge a cell below what the manufacturer defines as zero, but that damages it faster than the manufacturer’s specs. Similarly, you can continue to charge a cell past “100%” but you shouldn’t, for the same reason.
Confusingly, the PHEV’s BMS does go slightly above what it calls 100% every few charges, but “100%” is more like 95% of the cell spec, as discussed above. It presumably does this when the cell temperatures are low and the open-circuit Voltage hasn’t yet reached 4.1V—it keeps track of the Ah going into the cells (so-called “Coulomb counting”), so this could be an indication that the BMS’s SoH estimate is pessimistic.
And finally, don't forget that the BMS’s SoC number is always an estimate. It's based on combining several measurements, integrating them, adjusting for previous experience, adding a fiddle-factor for expected change over time, and disembowelling chickens in Minato-ku. So if you see the SoC drop after the car’s been sitting for a couple of hours, you’ve not “lost” charge, it’s just the BMS changing its mind.
H.2. The “kWh” stored is kinda meaningless
The cells in the battery don't actually store electrical energy. No really: they store charge:
- Power is measured in Watts (Amps × Volts)
- Energy is measured in Watt∙hours (not strictly an SI unit, but whatever)
- Charge is measured in Coulombs (Amps × seconds)
So the most efficient way to turn charge into energy is to be gentle on the throttle. You’ll get more power out of the same charge over the period of time you’re extracting it from the cells (i.e., converting charge back to electrical energy is more efficient).
>>>